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tisdag 26 juni 2012

Passar de? – Do they fit?

Att sticka sockor från tån och upp är inte min favoritmetod, men ibland är det nödvändigt för att mönstret skall bli rätt. Problemen jag har är att jag tycker att den häl som man oftast använder i tå-upp-sockor, med förkortade varv (short rows), gör att sockorna blir väldigt trånga över hälen/fotryggen. Eftersom jag alltid funderar på hur jag kan göra saker annorlunda, tänkte jag berätta hur jag gör.

To knit socks from the toe up is not my favourite method, but sometimes it is necessary because of the stitch pattern. The problems I have, is that the most commonly used heel for toe up socks, the short row heel, makes the socks very narrow in the heel. Not good for high arches. Since i always think about how I can do things differently, I'm going to tell you how I deal with this. 

Jag har gjort en del sockor från tån den senaste tiden, Frond, Campanualae, Kamala från Twist Collective vår/sommar 2012.

I have made some toe-up socks lately, Frond, Campanulae, Kamala from Twist Collective spring/summer 2012.

Men också Gotico och Darya.

But also Gotico and Darya.

Det de har gemensamt är att jag en bit innan hälen börjar öka antalet maskor, så att det blir en liten kil. Det ger fler maskor i hälen, vilket gör den djupare. Efter hälen minskas de extra maskorna bort igen.

What they have in common is that some distance from the heel turn I start increasing, creating a small gusset. This gives more stitches in the heel, which makes it deeper. After the heel turn, the extra stitches are decreased away.

De extra maskorna kan arbetas in i mönstret så att de inte märks så mycket.

The extra stitches can be worked into the design to be less obvious.

Eller så kan de användas som en dekorativ effekt, som i Campanulae.

Or they can be used as a decorative effect, as in Campanulae.

Det fungerar också i slätstickning. 

It works in stockinette too.

Den här tekniken kan användas i sockor som stickas uppifrån också, som i Lingerie.

This technique can also be used in top-down socks too, as in Lingerie.
Här göms kilen i det ribbade partiet baktill.

Here the gusset is hidden in the ribbed back of the sock.

Men hur vet man var man skall börja? Ja, här hjälper bara matte. Mät hur många maskor och varv du har per cm. Jag brukar sticka sockor med 9 m per tum, eller 36 m per 10 cm. Bestäm hur många extra maskor du vill ha på var sida. 7 till 9 extra maskor brukar passa mig, det ger omkring 2 cm, lite mer eller lite mindre, på var sida. Jag brukar öka vart tredje varv, så om jag har 8 extra maskor, så blir det 24 varv. Jämför med hur många varv per cm du har, då vet du hur många cm innan hälen du skall börja.

But how do you know where to start? Well, only math helps here. Measure stitches and rows per cm (or inches). I usually knit socks at 9 sts per inch, or 36 sts per 10 cm. Now decide how many extra stitches you need on each side. 7–9 stitches is usually right for me, it gives me about 0.75 inches, somewhat less or somewhat more, on each side. I usually increase every third round, so for 8 stitches, that gives me 24 rounds. Compare with your number of rounds per cm/inches, then you know how far from the heel you need to start.

Enkelt, eller hur? :) Nu kan du också skräddarsy dina sockor. Eller, om det känns för jobbigt, så kan du ju alltid köpa ett av mina mönster...

Easy as pie, right? :) Now you can too tailor your socks to your feet. Or, if it seems too complicated, you can always buy one of my patterns...

2 kommentarer:

  1. I bought the Lingerie, knit a swatch which came out exactly to 9 stitches per inch, so the Large size would be perfect according to the measurements given. I knit the cuff slightly smaller size needles and then changed to the 2 mm ones. After about 2 pattern repetitions I tried to put the sock over my foot, but there was no way I could get it over my heel. I then tried the sock on a friend's foot - two shoe sizes smaller! And only by severely stretching the material were we able to get the sock over her heel.
    I usually knit socks toe-up, increase about 10-14 stitches over several rows before I start the heel. I use Cat Bohrdi's sweet tomato heel and after the heel is done I work decreases into the pattern around the leg. This works well and i never have issues getting the sock over the heel of the person the socks were knit for.
    Any idea as to why the sock would not fit over my heel?

  2. I have had this Lingerie sock in my Pinterest "beautiful knits" board since I first joined on to Pinterest. I finally just printed it this week (October 2022) and was searching for any help with the special ladder stitches that are on either side of the heel. Thanks for this beautiful pattern that was on Knitty. I did find your updated leg chart and the comments where there were changes. I think these have answered my questions and am looking forward to finishing these socks.

    I also found the posts on your health and see that you have not posted for a while. I hope with all my heart that you are well.